Continuing on with how we can “modernize” the art of making pasta, we look at the ravioli. Pasta Making is a technique that his has been around for thousands of years, either by the Chinese making noodles using millet or more recently the Italians using durum wheat flour to produce dry pastas. In either case, it is a subject that is been stagnant for some time and needs to be looked into further.
At Alinea in Chicago, Grant Achatz produced a dish called the Black Truffle Explosion. Here he took a filling of a ravioli that started off a liquid (truffle juice), made it a solid by adding gelatin to it, wrapped it in a pasta dough and added heat to it, where it turned liquid again. This is a very innovative technique and an example of how we can move pasta making forward.
When applying modern ingredients and techniques, it is okay to revert back to where we came from. When looking at the Black Truffle Explosion and a piece of partially oxidized foie gras terrine, I went with it. In Escoffier, there is a classic sauce called Allemande, which is a thickened veloute, and a derivative called Sauce Villeroy, which is the addition of truffle and ham extracts. Though I started out with these two sauces in mind, the ingredients and even the method was changed a little. But hey, that’s what cooking is anyway, right ?!
3 1/2 C. AP Flour
12 egg yolks
2 whole eggs
Foie Gras Spheres
500ml(2 C.) port wine
500ml(2 C.) heavy cream
700g foie gras terrine and scraps, (room temp)
chopped truffle peelings
- Puree foie gras until smooth and push through a tammy. Reserve.
- Reduce port by half, add cream and reduce by half again.
- Whisk the foie gras into cream, add truffles.
- Measure out 500ml(2C.) of Sauce.
- Add in 8 bloomed gelatin sheets and incorporate well. Strain.
- Pour into semispheric molds and freeze.
- Fuse together two semispheres to form one sphere. Refrigerate.
- Roll out pasta dough and enrobe.